2000 – Colorado River & Beyond

(It’s a book)

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 1 Leaving Atlanta – The trip West Wednesday 6/21/00  

Well the day has arrived. Today it’s strip the bed. Wash the sheets and comforter. Reapply them for a fresh return home environment. Car’s 98% packed. A quick power wash should alert me of any potential leak from the new windshield installed 48 hours ago. Close timing, the instruction was to wait 48 hours to let the adhesive fully set up. Checking off each item on the "leaving" list there are only two items remaining before heading to Utah.  

Through Vince a salesman I’ve been casually talking with at HiFi Buys for over eight months, submitted a cover letter and resume for a sales position at a new store opening less than 2 miles from the house. It appears to be the best location of any of their Atlanta stores. Vince advised it would be opening while I’m away. Having spotted the store under preparation 30 hours ago, my rush to complete these papers before leaving had some merit. Why HiFi Buys? Stereo's the hobby. Why not see if there's some fun while working.

There’s still a medical appointment at 2PM, then Atlanta becomes history. Pre-trip jitters as a companion for several days are not sorted out yet. Has everything been thought of and addressed? Is the house safe? What challenges will the river have for us? Will the drive west be taxing? All of these are conditions cured by a relaxed mind. It’s easy to say, harder to accomplish.

Morning was non-stop. Early afternoon was scheduled to perfection. If I can just get out of Atlanta before rush hour, the weeks before our river put-on will slide into place. Pre-river jitters should quell the first day on water. The unknown factor is, what river changes the Park Service test of continuous 8,000 cubic feet per second will bring. Concerns for increased river volume may be true for rivers in general but the Colorado has a two edged sword. It may be more difficult when high but it’s also reported to be dicey when low. Low it gets technical as well as pushy. The test volume may be high for eastern topography but it's low for western terrain. It's very low for the Colorado.

Left Atlanta at 3:00PM from route 400 and I-285. Stopped long enough to top off gas and roared out of town up I-75 toward Chattanooga, TN. The plan, see how far the night will go without strain. First night’s stop option might be just the other side of Chattanooga beside a lake. It’s a short hall from Atlanta but who knows what traffic will bring.

With a Porsche wake up alarm this morning from a fellow rest area traveler parked next space over, it’s wash up, shave and off from Benton, IL. Got further than expected last night. After a gas up in St Louis, MO and a brief detour (missed I-70 interchange having failed to note the interstate change on the AAA map) stopped 40 mile out of town for a nap. The unwanted wake-up call had been too early. 5:30AM eastern, 4:30AM central was pitch black out but allowed passage through St Louis minus traffic. By 8:00AM eastern was off again. Pre-trip calculations had highlighted some timing. If, without strain, the area of Moab, UT could be reached Saturday morning instead of mid afternoon, a campsite might be secured at Arches National Park. First come, first served is a rule at many national parks. The goal now was to reach Denver, CO plus some miles to be within morning’s reach of Moab. Pounded by hard headwinds all afternoon, the heavily loaded Honda struggled under the resistance of a canoe and Tule car top carrier. Pushing, it labored at 80 and often 75mph was all it could do.

The psyche of a few western towns, passed through on this trip, seems to shout with the excitement of being physical or out there. Having stopped for two hour in Denver on the way out and having succeeded with the timing by not arriving too late, a last minute opportunity workout and shower at Bally’s gym left the impression they were much better equipped for any kind of workout than their Atlanta counterparts. It felt like kayaker’s, climber’s, canoeist’s, rafter’s, mountain biker’s, hiker’s preparation and augmentation heaven. This western ambiance if not an active person’s environment is perhaps alternatively keeping the faith with crafts, art or local culture. Perhaps it’s merely a sense of focused involvement in the basics. With fewer people than back east, it’s easier to sense this participation.

Blair Ranch rest area nestled between the Colorado River and I-70 140 miles west of Denver is a quiet small landscaped rest area that feels like welcome. It must be 50 – 55 degrees. There’s a boat access as in canoe / kayak and a paved bike path leading up and down the river. Blair Family Ranch is across the river over a ½ to 1 million dollar common road bridge. The Colorado is upper Delaware River wide already.

Even with the sound of trucks working their way up the mountain, I-70’s Glenwood Canyon should be celebrated. The route west out of Denver was severe, forcing the Honda down into third gear on occasion in order to maintain a speed above 50mph. I-70 goes vertical as it twists and wriggles into the Rockies. It’s a struggle recognized by anyone un-jaded by the driver’s seat of a 3 ton gas guzzling, emissions producing, luxuriously outfitted, monster engine SUV which cruise these "hills" as if up were down. Glenwood Canyon, they say, is the most celebrated 12.5-mile section of interstate in the nation. It is both a marvel of engineering as it mimics the Colorado’s flow and an example of how we can co-exist with nature. In a tightly cut gorge the Colorado, a single-track railroad and a 4 lane interstate co-mingle. Except for the noise of traffic, even the highway is little to abhor. The rest area could be any mini National Park Service offering.

Being ahead of my most optimistic schedule offers an early morning respite to see four small rest areas, a surprise for anyone previously unaware. If we treated the rest of our nation this well there would be no environmental issues. Instead there would be pride and celebration. I’ve never seen a highway to which returning for biking or canoeing is thought provoking.

It’s been all down hill after I-70 reached 6,600 feet elevation. Now it has become a valley with impressive walls even though industry is obvious all around. The rest area near Rifle, containing the information center, is unfriendly. It shouts, stop here only if you plan on finding out where to spend money. Do not stop long. Exit 47 I-70 Colorado has camping at the Colorado River State Island Park and gas is available at the Utah exit of I-70 toward Moab. The camping and gas information were missing from the AAA map. 

Where to begin? It’s Saturday morning and I’m leaning back against a Platypus hydration pack. Both of us are firmly outstretched on a 25-degree rock-slope facing Private Arch in Arches National Park, Utah. Located almost 2/3rds of the distance clockwise along the Devils Garden loop-trail (including Primitive Trail) if you have walked to all trail associated arches and a spire called Dark Angel. Devils Garden is considered to be a 4 to 5 hour hike approximately 7 miles long. Today was an early rise day at 3:30AM mountain time, too early if honest. Springtime for this dessert, the two near by evergreen trees, both the size of large shrubs at 4 and 5 feet tall, show signs of seeds. One has a sky blue berry ¼ inch in diameter. The other is growing what look like small Ponderosa pinecones almost at the tips of branches. Where there is earth among exposed sandstone life hangs on.

Needless to say I’ve been alone all morning. It rained here late afternoon and evening yesterday. Footprints in these kern marked trails were all faded out from pounding raindrops. Mine are the first visible today. The effort destroyed an occasional cross-trail spider’s work of art. Primitive trail does require some minor rock scrambling but is not difficult. One-quarter way between Private Arch and rejoining with Devils Garden trail presented boot prints of one person who had apparently turned back. Three-quarters of the way back along this section, footprints from a party of two had also turned back. Almost at the confluence of this loop trail, a man and woman, first site of people today, were likely to join the others. She had a daypack. Hope she was carrying the water. He had nothing. Just at the confluence a young couple were better prepared with hydration packs. Back at the trailhead parking lot at 9AM there were many people beginning all or part of this 7-mile loop. By 11:15AM, having completed an added short hike 2.5 miles round trip to Broken Arch and Sandstone Arch it would have been better to have figured out a mile could have been saved by realizing that Sandstone Arch can be reached via a two city block length walk from a parked car.

This story has gotten far ahead of itself. Having arrived yesterday at the entrance to Arches NP, the first discovery is you must take water with you. Available from a spigot beside the visitors’ center and 40 minutes away at Devils Garden trailhead, the other extreme end of the park road, it’s a must on the hot dessert plateau above you where natural stone arches have formed. Five miles from Moab the park’s road climbs dramatically up the side of the plateau. Atop in open spaces and dry dessert air your tour begins at roadside viewpoints. Mine began as a get acquainted day and scheduling for the ranger tour of Fiery Furnace at 10AM in two days, their earliest opening. At $6 it’s held once a day. Having burned up a chunk of the day and getting information at the center the plan was to drive to the other end of the park, take the only non-4 wheel drive dirt road in the park 9 miles in for the 3.4 mile round trip hike to Tower Arch, an isolated trip unlikely to happen another day. Like the ranger said, a higher speed gets you skipping a few of the washboard undulations and was the first serious car abuse of the trip. Mid-day here is very hot. The elevation makes the sun intense. The hike was a test of body condition and hiking in Chaco sandals. Both passed. This is a very isolated hike with only one couple sited from parking to exiting the dirt road.

With no park campsites available, (first come first served, they line up at 7:30AM), the next best location was BLM (Bureau of Land Management) primitive campsites 5 miles from the park on route 128 along the Colorado River. Opted for the cheaper site (has a fence around but no overhead cover above the outhouse toilet) $5 per day ($2.50, 1/2 price with your Golden Access Card number). The option turned out to be better than the park. You have the river for an unofficial bath, some mid-day shade and cooler temperature than atop the plateau. Arches campground has water but not for bathing. The BLM campground has no drinking water but there is spring water on route 128 just off the route 191 intersections, Moab to the left, Arches NP to the right. The BLM sites must also be secured early, perhaps before noon. The process is simple. Fill out envelope and stub provided from a box. Put money in the envelope and seal. Stuff the envelope minus stub into a money slot in a locked metal post. Attach the stub to a post designating your site.

Back at the campsite for a bath in the Colorado around noon after this morning’s hikes at Devils Garden and Sand Dune Arch. This naptime out of the mid-day sun is too buggy. Will look elsewhere once clean. To digress a little, the trusty digital BOSS organizer went off at 3:30AM. No wonder I felt short sheeted. The BOSS organizer, used as an alarm clock can be set to display time zones. It sets alarms based on your home time (eastern) regardless of the time zone you’re looking at. The error was used to drive to Arches visitors’ center for morning spruce up and birdbath laundry. The center is closed at this hour but the rest rooms aren’t. The early rise was planned for photo ops of sunrise at a Devils Garden trail arch, a 40-minute drive within the park plus hiking time. It worked out well. With a 5:50AM trail start it was still about 20 minutes late for beginning sunrise at an arch. Speeding the length of the park’s paved roadway and eating previously prepared P&J on Jewish rye in motion on the trail permitted as much sunrise among arches as could be gained by scurrying from arch to arch. Then a large cloud took over the light. Great hiking environment, nix rising sun picture taking.

At 2:15PM the attempted nap is over. Even in the shade it’s hot. Besides an occasional fly buzzing during lights out, there was the camper having a go at locating me vocally. Seems he had removed my permit stub thinking me a one nighter and replaced it with his own. He was attempting to locate the usurper (me).

Unaware of any gained sleep even with the few wisps of suggested cool breeze, clean at least, all effort will be made to remain clean until the 1.5 mile hike out to Delicate Arch starting at 6:30PM to catch sunset "in just the right place". Tomorrow it’s the 3-hour Fiery Furnace ranger-lead hike, the only way allowed into this area other than special permit. Be on time, no refunds, bring water and wear hiking boots for the rock scrambling are the instructions.

Interesting, my old Teva Guide sandals were not for hiking. Both they and my feet wound up taped to halt foot destruction. With my new Chaco Z1 sandals worn with a pair of socks, the shoe is on the other foot or is it if the shoe fits? Hiking thus far today has included 9.5 miles in control and comfort. Today’s habit of carrying the boots in case should be good for tomorrow. For the Grand Canyon, one pair of good wool hiking socks should do but the boots will be there in case.

At 4:10PM finding a place to make late lunch or early dinner rules all thought. At 8:15PM you may wonder why my body is comfortably laid back in a folding chair, complete with armrests, headrests and foot support. Try, it’s overcast for the second evening and a 3-mile round trip hike for a not happening sunset does not appeal to a 10-mile-trail-day-old body. This route 128 roadside pullover beside the Colorado is less sweaty than a hike and less bug filled than camp ½ mile away. Besides, sitting next to the car’s passenger window, viewing sandstone cliffs can be augmented by an Elton John CD. When it cools more or darkens, the campsite should be bug free. It was last night.

I don’t know why they were there but coming over a rise last night showed why some cliffs appeared lit in spite of the darkness. Perhaps it was a pickup truck with a specialized generator and four 18-inch monster halogen lamps mounted on a roof rack creeping forward opposite my direction. First I flashed high beams, then a long blast, then reality. There was no way to see the road. The Honda slowed to a literal crawl. With sun visor lowered to block the light we inched forward until passed these fools.

Ah yes, light bulb, keeping this campsite one more day would provide the option of another Colorado bath following tomorrows hike. Staying one more night might open up campsites at Canyonlands NP the following morning.

Sunday morning and life revolves around the Fiery Furnace ranger lead hike. Awake at 6:30AM, filled out a campsite permit for tonight. Drove to route 128 and 191 junctions to a picnic area (tables supplied by Moab Lions Club) to a covered pit toilet. A couple of city blocks distance back up 128 is the spring, a pipe concreted in and most effective. The outflow passes under 128 to the Colorado behind bushes across the road. It’s clean water for a morning shave beside the river.

Sand Dune Arch is one of the easiest to get to and small enough to be a very quiet place to wait out time before a hike. Its other advantage is it’s between two large vertical slabs of sandstone that essentially block out direct sunlight, creating a cool corridor with a gentle breeze. Only about 300 yards from the road, you’re in an oasis with interesting formations and some naturally well-placed greenery. What more could you ask for when being in the sun is already hot. Almost brought in the folding chair. Didn’t want to stand out that much if anyone happened by. Cool, comfortable earth tone sand is a bottoms delight.

Five PM brings a somewhat tired but clean and refreshed traveler back to Sand Dune Arch. Fiery Furnace, a hike in among fins of vertical rock is well worth the cost and hiking effort. A must do if moderate hiking and rock scrambling isn’t a trial for you. It ends just in time. Hiking from 1PM to 6PM plus is out. The temperature in the sun feels above the boiling point and can be arduous even in the shade. Best option; take a snooze in a shady spot, preferably reclined in a chair. After two previous days of clouds, today appears a good shot at Delicate Arch. In the shade at Sand Stone Arch, water bottle at hand and reclined in a chair is a good way to wait. By the way, if in you’re travels you are on the Fiery Furnace hike and a ranger says something about Kissing Rock Arch, yours truly gave it it’s name submitted on the basis you need to kiss the rock to which the arch is attached in order to see the arch.

Just had a passer-by, tall slender man accompanied by young daughter, appreciate my sense of comfort. He asked if I had been back in the Fiery Furnace, likely a response to the similar fins surrounding us. Following the obvious response, the question, "Have you been on the tour?" brought "No". "Oh, you went on a permit." "No, you just go back in there. It’s extensive." Seeing nothing to be gained by embarrassing this man in front of his daughter, no comment was made. There are valid environmental reasons for requiring a permit.

An observation: considering the size of the US population in comparison to the neighborhood of Europe, the slanted proportion toward foreign languages that pass by is disheartening. We are either working too hard or have the wrong family values.

Earth-tone grains of sand passing before my pen was first an indication that the warm breezes had changed and second that something was afoot. A look down the parallel sandstone fins approximately 30 feet apart brought the news. No scattered clouds sunset tonight. They have become overcast to the west though still scattered to the east.

Plan B and current pen location is the Windows section of the park. This is the place. If you have time for nothing else, spend what you have here. There are more arches here in one place and you can walk to or climb within them from easy short trails. Within the largest and most complex there is a place to put your bottom, comfortably supported from below with a 45 degree angled backrest about 5 stories up inside the arch on the far right wall viewed from the approach. At best this natural rock formation accommodates two and is likely the best viewing spot. You can see all of the structure to advantage in a relaxed body position. Arriving very late helps remove the cacophony that easily echoes about from classic tourists short on time to reflect upon their surroundings or enjoy the chipmunks animated without their presence. Other than their tourist noise they are a fun addition viewed scrambling up and down rock. Dotting the landscape they add scale and humanity facing minor challenges both relational and physical. There’d be an ugly blood trail if some of these people (coddled to the point of oblivion) who climb 6 to 8 stories with inadequately prepared skills or a planned route down, slipped. The possible climbs up are fortunately forgiving. Still, it’s scary to watch. Finally late enough, it’s solitude and three portals through which to view the sky or discover the landscape.

It is difficult to internalize the subtle beauty of either the majestic or small offerings of this park on the fly. Two full days, with effort, will get you to all or most designations on the park’s map. This is enough to allow you to pick areas to come back to and hang out in for a more metaphysical experience in future. In all there are limited major sites of narrow focus interest. Obvious hiking trails are very few with valid reason. Your restricted access to a seemingly vast expanse can seem questionable. The Park Service is not making clear to the general entrant the dire sensitivity of the ecological basis for the area. Walk on it, the thin-layer bottom rung of the food chain and it turns from life giving soil to sand dunes. Studies are beginning to suggest that the nitrogen fixing life form that keeps the surface sand bound together allowing plants to take hold in a non-shifting environment developed in a different environment. Therefore when damaged it may be gone forever.

Bottom line; pick you’re locations and enjoy them for more than 15-minute sound bites. Stay out of unprotected afternoon sun from an end of June perspective. Take the Fiery Furnace Ranger hike if able. It’s limited. Sign up first thing. Perhaps get a permit if you have the time.

A marginal few raindrops to suggest closing car top and windows produced urgent stirrings just short of morning twilight. Guess it’s time to drive to Canyonlands NP, Island in the Sky section to insure a campsite. They are filled by 10AM per Arches NP rangers.

Most unexpected, the Honda was just visited by a hummingbird while waiting for the opening of the Canyonlands visitors center. The hummingbird checked out all the Honda’s windows in this scrub-growth dessert environment. Ok, so there’s a pair of small rabbits as well. Plus there’s the lunacy of a chipmunk.

9:08AM at Syncline loop trailhead is a two-car space staging area with picnic facilities and more parking just behind. The gods must be with me, it’s a late trail start if beating mid day heat is a priority, but it’s overcast and cool enough for an 8-mile jaunt. The big question is taking raingear. Didn’t plan for this. Unpacking the Thule car-top carrier to get at squeezed in Grand Canyon gear isn’t on the touring list. It’s cool out and getting cold easily is a byproduct of body build. Heads says take a chance and go without raingear even if it seems daunting. Tails wins without the coin toss. Too much of a coward to face perhaps two hours rain-soaked on a cool day. Opted to carry the sunscreen just in case. It’s dripping the same rain, insufficient to get you wet, that was morning’s wakeup stimulus. Stepping out of the car, the first real rain arrives as more than just a sprinkle. A solution to indecision is; switch to hiking boots in case it gets slick and use a a collapsible tote umbrella. Don’t laugh. It will work. 9:30AM the hike ensues.

Having arrived this morning at the visitors’ center an hour before the rangers is likely the cause for what follows. He, the ranger, definitely said crater. Succinctly came 8-mile loop trail. Being willing, the likely conclusion is a moderate hike of this distance around the rim. Hopefully the ranger was doing his job well and had sized me up first glance for an athletic young buck, full of youthful  energy (at age 55). Being a self-perceived non-hiker, no mention of implied difficulty had been generated; none discussed.

As a loop trail your choices are clockwise or the other way. The arbitrary decision was clockwise. As the trail made a gentle case suggesting a descent, thoughts of "up first is preferable to down first" ended quickly. An eighth of a mile in produced more wind and rain than a tee shirt, shorts and umbrella was comfortable with. Plan B to do the 2 mile round trip to an overlook evolved quickly. At a quarter mile, still on a negligible descent, the rain and wind abated. Ahead, now in view, the reason for the hike took shape. High canyon walls across a wide chasm, typical for the area, precipitated questions self answered. No way they would direct the trail over there. Correct, the trail is not crossing this deep gorge but it can descent into it. The descent starts now. Still puzzling out a moderate rim hike it was obvious the steep descent couldn’t last. Thirteen hundred basically vertical feet with only a couple of minor boulder scrambles does not constitute a rim hike. All the way down it seemed unlikely the trail would go the distance. The climb out will be unpleasant. At 3.5 miles in, having walked a long time on a gradually descending wash, a park service signpost provided the bad news. There were 3 miles to a dead end that way and 4.8 miles to go on my chosen path. Should have looked up syncline before starting (syncline trail). ("A fold in rocks in which rock layers dip inward from both sides toward the axis.")

The Syncline trail now gradually ascends from the confluence of two washes that combine for that 3-mile dead end run toward the Green River (6-miles round trip). Up the wash not yet traveled, umbrella rolled up in one hand, the pace quickens. This is going to be a long day. Hope this direction is a steep descent and gradual ascent out. A 30-foot high dry-wash pour over is evidence of where many have been fooled before. The trail seems to go in a circle up a steep hill and down into the wash just short of the pour over. There has to be a way up and over it. Having picked up a set of one-direction footprints clearly delineated in flattened post rain-wash surfaces; it was clear the creator had continued forward. Yet the kerns seemed to circle. A sudden change in direction to a vertical rock scramble up 20 feet from the highpoint of the former circling trail could be easily overlooked. Atop the pour over and traversing flat again the logic was continue up the wash. But the trail seemed headed out of the wash toward an alternate very steep high climbing notch. How are they going to get us out of there? Some ups and shallow downs bearing toward the notch revealed a promising opening to the right. This opening was not to be, the notch and up was. Much vertical trail mixed with boulder scrambling, then the view back became impressive for what had just been accomplished. There were a few fear-of-heights moments for those inclined that could be dispatched by concentration on continuous movement forward.

Suppose the ranger had been wrong about "the athletic young buck". Some of this trail’s offerings would be hard on a general hiker and difficult during a sunny day, perhaps dangerous if short on water or energy bars. Yes it gets you up close and personal with the terrain but unless you’re in for the exercise stick to the scenery easily acquired. This was one tough hike. The positives were taking the clockwise direction for the 1,300-foot climb. The weather was god sent. The 7-mile Arches NP Devils Garden push, a beginner’s trail next to this, was just enough stress on tendons and ligaments behind a non-hikers knee to add the resilience needed here. The pounding of a long descent, the aerobics and muscle needed for the ascent, the normal heat would be painful at best for an intermediate hiking body. Plenty of accessible water, hiking boots, energy bars and flashlight have been basic travel companions. The boots were a must here.

At hike's end and hiking ignorance, two basic questions asked of rangers returned, "it’s considered a 7 hour hike classified as strenuous. To an indication of 4 hours and 45 minutes completion time the responses were good time and you must be in good shape. Adding an hours grace for a cool weather advantage and a required Cliff energy-bar stop, hope this implies preparedness for the Colorado.

Up at 5:30AM to be at Mesa Arch 1.5 miles from the campground for sunrise per a queried ranger’s advice. A definite yes, you’ll get sunup over La Sal Mountains with strong canyon shadows much closer in the foreground. Though heavy scattered clouds blocked the event this morning, the results were worth the wakeup call. The ranger failed to mention the return trail (one mile round trip) has an approximate 200-foot section looking past Pinion Ponderosa pine at frontally lit canyons. These views were worth 2 hours of chilly morning air.

The day’s plan is an easy day staying out of direct sunlight. Present location is a much-unappreciated Shafer Trail viewpoint roadside pullover with great advantages. It may be the only place you can sit in your car and see canyon structure lit from the back on one side and from the front on the other. It’s a small innocuous pullover. No one stops for more than 5 minutes. Some barely get the car stopped. Most of the time you are alone with a gentle cool morning breeze. It’s many miles round trip to Moab, laundry, hopefully a bath, water (there is non available here), town sightseeing, spare hydration bladder purchase and back here this evening for sunset. 11:30AM and it’s allready been a fabulous commune with the canyons day.

Attractions are generally viewed from a high vantage point accessible by car and short walk. The views are Grand Canyon rim like with a more intimate feel due to shorter distances. Best location morning and evening is the ½ mile walk to Mesa Arch. If the light is right it’s a zinger.

The park, late June, is far less trafficked than Arches NP. It is also cooler sleeping out. There are lots of evening bugs that disappear in the night air. Expect no facilities or water, just a small campsite, picnic table and covered pit toilet.

After sunrise at Mesa Arch in the Islands section of Canyonlands NP, this time with a camera in hand, headed for Canyonlands Needles section 110 miles drive away. Arrived at the Chester Park loop / Joint Trail and Elephant Hill trailhead at 12:45PM for an 11 mile hike. After a stop in Moab for lettuce, tomato and block ice, a small breakfast and no lunch this was decidedly a two bar hike. That’s two Cliff chocolate chip energy bar hike. It’s not what the name implies. Instead, the ingredients are what your mother wishes you’d eat. They are not sweet, taste good (when hiking) and get the job done.

This was a tough haul more for distance and heat considering it’s far from level. If you’re drinking water it’s likely not enough. You need to push it down constantly. Of the two Canyonlands sections, my choice is Needles, no contest a much more inviting physical environment full of its own preference of basic colors. You could do just the 6-mile Chester Park Viewpoint hike that doubles back over its route. Both trails retrace this section. Chester Park Viewpoint has most of what the joined trails have minus some interesting cool and narrow walks between mega blocks of stone. Do not start either hike if not in reasonable condition. Absolutely do not continue on the Joint Trail if you're not feeling great. The extra 5 miles will be unpleasant. 70 ounces of water was consumed after having tanked up ½ hour before starting. It was still good to have a reserve bottle if needed. The last 3 miles were water force-fed. Met a man shaded by a Pinion Ponderosa pine tree at the Joint Trail crossroad who considered himself a fast hiker. We couldn’t compare times because our start points were different. He felt the Park Service times were short. Two women, hikers in the flesh, didn’t. Eleven miles accomplished in 4 hours 45 minutes left little to consider an additional footstep. Agreed, Park Service time of 5 hours + is short or assumes hard-core dessert hikers. Having been at the gym and mountain biking for months I’m likely properly cooked. I’ll find out if I hike with Curt during the Grand Canyon trip. You know, the one stride for my two, body in mediocre shape, leave me in the dust going up hills trip organizer.

Up again at 5:30AM for sunrise opportunities after several nighttime wakeups perhaps due to one circling buzzard (mosquito) that couldn’t quite be echo located for subsequent execution. Did the best possible photo op with some cloud cover sunward. Now that it’s over, guess it’s time to get into photography enough to at least clean a very dirty lens and polarizing filter. It might also help in using some of my photo technique knowledge if I reacquaint myself with how to take the various camera functions off "auto". Time to read the manual of a rarely used camera.

Been sitting in a closed car to keep out the bugs at a roadside get-out-of-the-way spot chosen for pictures while making notes as the sun rises further. It’s getting warm in here, time for the scenic drive before returning to camp for clean up and making plans. Definitely no long hikes today. The question is weather to move on or stay. This sure is pretty in the changing light and cloud shadows. With very little roadway and only a couple of roadside viewing points plus some well chosen roadside get-out-of-the-ways, this is a place to choose your hang out spot or hike.

Enjoy the drive to and out of Canyonlands NP, specially the Needles section. It rivals the Park. Glenn driving 10 mph below the 55 mph speed limit should give an indication. It feels like a mistake leaving after one day but hike or leave persists at a time when not hiking today is likely best. Departing pesky bugs, needing a day off from hiking and the beckoning of Monument Valley at sunset as well as sunrise is a strong incentive for road miles. The car is in motion. Michael Jackson’s Thriller makes a great counterpoint to these hills. It starts with wind and a creaking door. Just outside the park, during this trip with no large animal sightings, it’s joyous to see the second coyote trotting across the Needles access road.

A hikers place with colors inviting your mind's eye it’s worth the trip. My preference of these two Canyonlands NP sections would be here. However, if hiking is not on your mind, there is little for you here.

Accept some inside information. There’s a campground inside this tribal park, $10 for a tent site. Pay the $10. There’s water and pay showers in a run down but clean facility. (FYI: Your tent better withstand real wind.) The best part is you can have a front row seat at tent sites 24 or 25 with runners up 57, 58, 55 and 56 squeezing out 59. The prime group campsites are 26 and 27. You have real advantages. While others are trapped in their air-conditioned cars touring the valley below at mid to late afternoon, temperatures perhaps 10 degrees hotter than at the visitors’ center and campground, you can relax in the shade of a canopy at a picnic table waiting for evening or sundown. An impressive part of the valley is before you. The Park opens at 8AM. You can be taking pictures from camp at 6.

It’s "Monsoon season" here. The more than a shower rain that is starting occurs once in three-years. With poor planning, as in it seemed like a good idea at the time, setting up a tent for the first time this trip became problematical. The wind picked up so strong the tent took on the appearance of a kite stretched off the end of one hand during an effort to stake it down. Two unsolicited neighbors determined a rescue was appropriate. They held fast, I drove spike. With 98% complete it began to pour. In the end the car provides a better evening, night and morning view. Tent practice makes perfect even if it’s not likely to be used on the Colorado. A lazy afternoon at a campsite with a world-class view equal to the best can’t be beat.

What’s it like to wake up in "the realm of the gods"? No different from others. But it’s great to be able to enjoy it. Things like a man made campground and general clutter fade into unimportance. I am struck by a people, local Navajo, who continue to struggle for existence in the awesome presence of such surroundings. It’s a puzzlement that culture alone would seem inadequate to explain. What have we other Americans done and continue with that contributes to such poverty? Perhaps in the end it is style rather than substance. This environment could never support more than subsistence. "American basics" such as running water and electricity are still luxuries here. Native culture, greatly impacted by ours, has been forced to reflect an existence less in tune with the land than their ancestors, thus a poverty impression. If with sheer will, Native Americans remain here with their ancestors, religion, culture and effort to honor the land, it will take creative genius to advance, in our terminology without loosing their roots. With an American culture that has difficulty honoring even the present, perhaps helping to engage creative genius is where we currently fail if we have an obligation to peoples we’ve displaced.

This morning has a cool breeze, almost chilly. Today’s "job" is to explore the valley and figure out where to sleep tonight. Sunrise was super as was last night's sunset in spite of, or perhaps because of general heavy cloud cover.

The day’s doings: One more sunset and sunrise here is assured through reserved campsite 24. After 3 hours at one location looking back across the valley’s monoliths toward the visitors’ center, it’s hang out at site 24 from 2PM until after sunrise tomorrow. It may seem a strange day but watching an everchanging landscape-painting, courtesy of clouds and shadows highlighted by changing sunlight angle, is one reason for vacations. Beach lovers would agree.

A must see that should not be missed at sunrise (sunset is also good). If the gods bless you, they will make an awe inspiring site even more spectacular for your mantra.

Last evening’s exciting weather-phenomenon-generated Monument Valley scene would at best be difficult to describe. Suffice to say it was outstanding, heroic, and mythic. This morning an alarm set accidentally for 3:30AM instead of 5:30AM for sunrise, opened both eyes to starlight. A little more sleep, then sunrise and it was off to Natural Bridges National Monument. Natural Bridges NM is a quick stop, a nine-mile loop-dive with 3 stone bridges. Hikes are two flavors, bridge to bridge or they descend approximately 500, 400 and 300 feet from the loop-drive into tranquil intimate oasis of quiet, comfortable and cooler surroundings; a good environment to chill out in. Campsites near the visitor’s center are provided with pit-toilet service only. An honor system water limit of 5 gallons can be acquired at the visitors’ center. If you want more from this place you will have to hike early or late for associated sunlight effects. The visitors’ center display is inviting, informative and to the point. Well done. Better gas up in Medicine Hat on the way here. It’s going to be a long hall for more (95-miles).

It’s a small place among low growth trees in an arid climate. The view of 3 stone bridges from overhead viewpoints is little more than a yawn. The more spectacular perspective of these natural stone bridges is from their bases. It would be better to visit only one bridge from the level of the river that carved them and spend some relaxing time along the riverbed than to scurry by at the driveway level. You could get some quality quiet time if only for an hour or two. You could also hike to all 3. But leave yourself more than half a day as I did.

Beside Lake Powel at a two-car length pullover with the lake down an unobvious 20-foot incline, there’s a very warm breeze drying my hiking cloths. I would have let it dry me as well but modesty is best back at the car. Washing salt sweat and sunscreen off always feels good. Had to veer from my original planned route across 68–mile Burr Trail, an unimproved road. The rangers at Natural Bridges advised against it in a standard clearance car. AAA states my current drive along highway 95 and 24 is a scenic one. Agreed thus far.

The colors of the rainbow would be hard pressed to outnumber the various changes in terrain traveling 95 and 24. Jagged mountains, flattop mesas, differing forms of rock and many types of sandstone, they are all about. Tonight’s "campsite" is courtesy of a ranger at Natural Bridges. According to him, there are many places in Dixie National Forrest to just pull in and set up for the night. It’s only 7:45 PM in the middle of a jeep or wagon trail that sees rare use. If lights show up tonight the Honda will have to be moved. There’s no driving around it. Among the smell of a Ponderosa pine forest somewhere high up is a break in the trees that oversees a new trip’s-environment and another amazing view. Below are scrub-growth covered mesas. In the distance it looks like barren pail sandstone. Beyond that is too hazy to make out, but the view when clear must go a very long way. Being prepared for self-sufficiency allowed for this happenstance stop. The sun is setting behind the mountain underfoot whose summit may not be much higher (Boulder Mountain). Hope this means sunrise is somewhere ahead. Think I’ll set up the car for tonight and take a short stroll down this trail before the light fades.

The trail belongs to no one. It passes through beautiful white Aspen and Ponderosa pine woods then fades into the forest 1/8^th to ¼ mile behind the Honda, which faces a backup-turn switchback toward the highway. At one time this trail went ahead as well. Following it a short distance takes you to a location overlooking a noisy campground 400 feet below. Though very short, these have been the first cool temperature walks so far. It may get cold up here tonight. Far off in the distance, too far for sound, is a lightning storm. Good day’s end.

With eyes available minutes before the sun’s bright orange face, it’s a get up comfortably chilly morning. A few thin scattered clouds and a 5 to 10 mph constant breeze outside the Honda make a slow impetus for morning wash-up, teeth and shave. With temperature and breeze combining for slightly numb wet fingers and face, shaving is a careful pursuit. Perhaps it’s the ever-rising sun or the eminent car’s shelter, but one windbreaker fleece vest has done it. For the record, it was a two fleece blanket night, though according to the North Star, the sun rose NE. Should be at Bryce Canyon an hour before they open the visitors’ center.

Dixie Forest’s Boulder Mountain has some overlooks worth a stop but they are afternoon and evening sights. If you’re driving Dixie’s route 12 at night, beware; this is open range country. A steer or deer may adorn your hood. They are both plentiful enough to be a risk.

Distance miscalculation: It will be an hour or two after opening at Bryce. Blew through Capitol Reef NP yesterday late. The visitors’ center was closed so there’s no information. It looked like hiking mesas country. Now, just short of Escalante, NM within Grand Staircase, NM has brought a 70 mph attempted pass-through back to reality and a pause in the morning light. Barron, slightly gray, cream colored massive solid rock hilltops are pockmarked with tufts of tiny trees. From this elevation it is an expansive view (Hogback-narrow ridge – 1940 automotive mail service route to Boulder). The plaque says, "As you drive over the narrow ridge of the Hogback, it is easy to imagine that you are walking a circus high wire." They got that right. Any wrong turns here are downers on either side of the road. Don’t barrel into any of the abbreviated gravel pullovers. It could be your last act in life. Thankfully the short 8-foot wide rental RV changed its mind about pulling in behind me. Thank you, thank you, and thank you! He picked the next pullover 40 feet ahead and left some of the vehicle still in the roadway. He could have pulled all the way over with his wife in cardiac arrest. This is the direction to be headed on this road since it has the pull-offs.

A plaque further along route 12 reads "On a clear day you can see forever." Even in some haze, Boulder Mountain now 30 straight-line miles away, looks to be just over there. "Boulder Mountain sits atop Aquarius Plateau. It is the highest timbered plateau in North America, with elevations exceeding 11,000-feet above sea level." Further down the road, Escalante appears to be an entire small town in the process of a major face-lift. It may become a fun tourist stop. The last miles into Bryce begin with sandstone that’s almost peach color and looks like an effort to create a castle by dripping sand on sand at the beach.

Bryce – first impressions: This park has organization disaster written all over it. Before you get to the visitors’ center you have the park’s shuttle bus service with a parking lot arrangement that makes every car consume gas via the longest exit route available. This stop is also useless if you intend to camp in the park since you must drive in, to get to the campgrounds. Parking is so limited at the visitors’ center that musical cars are the rigor. More polluting fuel is in the air. Shuttle busses, begun 3 days ago, are frequent but diesel? Campground entry is total confusion. Pick a number and register before you enter or drive in confused by loop A, B, C, D each intended for a type of use (vehicles over 20-feet, short vehicles and no generators). So you drive in to find your site and get lost trying to figure out how to get back to the registration board. Hasn’t the parks service figured out yet a picture is worth a thousand words? Haven’t they learned to put simple, obvious signs at junctures?

On the other hand, Bryce has monstrously beautiful and inviting colors both subtle and bold in a complex repetition of forms and patterns interesting to the eye.

Ok, the warning’s been given. It could get down to 40+ degrees tonight. Think it’s time to pull out every warm thing in the car. May need something for the 9 PM ranger talk. Crud, it’s unpack the Thule. Inside is the only windbreaker.

Colors, light and shadow glow here. Reflections flow with repetitive joyous abandon. Trails, once you have licked finding trailheads, are easy footing hard pack. Though most, perhaps un-surefooted, seem to gaze down; it is possible to walk with head up to take in all the eye candy. Just check where the trail is regularly. Some missteps would be a long way down. There are some fear-of-heights issues on some trails but perhaps concentrating on the trail ahead can compensate these short stretches.

Hiked all day; Navajo trail to Peek-a-boo to Queens Garden to Sunrise Point and back to North Campground was the morning run. After lunch, hiked the Rim to Fairyland Point to Tower Bridge, back to Sunrise Point and North Campground. Add in miscellaneous and the total ground covered today was 15-miles. This is not recommended if you’re not feeling strong. Lots of ups and downs await. Keep your water battery charged; you’re at 8,000 feet. Wear sunscreen, the light is intense. Tuesday’s plan is up early for sunrise photos then hit the road.

The easy, short rim hike yesterday with ranger at 5 PM was informative even though played down for the younger set. The 9 PM ranger hijinks slide show adjacent the campground was likewise. I’m whipped from today’s excursion but not so much to miss a shower and laundry. It’s windy. Perhaps campers will quiet down early.

Bryce Canyon remains true at dawn. Its subtle and bold beauty is around you all day. Watch it develop from any location, still or mobile afoot.

A must see place in spite of the 1.8 million visitors annually. There is eye candy everywhere. So hikes are not a requirement. They do cut down on the crowds. Low angle light is an advantage for colors but not necessary. Overcast may do just as well if you’re lucky. Button down your hat, it can get windy. Chilly to cold nights are a reality after sunset in late June.

Schedule ½ day to get acquainted. Bryce is inadequately signed and poorly organized. The campground is sectioned to get you away from RV generators. The men’s washroom had one sink. Outside dishwashing and water spigot are provided. Showers and laundry are at the general store a short hop from North Campground, which is just passed the visitors’ center. This campground is a good staging area for hikes. You can leave your car and skip the shuttle buses just begun 3 days ago. If you’re just going to overlooks, take the shuttle and leave the parking hassles behind.

Cedar Break National Monument is a very small less complex version of Bryce. With limited hiking, it is colder, windier and approximately 2,000 feet higher at 10,000 feet plus. It’s a late get up place with light coming over your shoulder to arrive in the canyon around 9 AM. It’s 48 degrees and windy. Perhaps from the sun at almost two miles above sea level, the cold in this wind is not intense. There are no crowds here. The light here at 9:30 AM is so crystal clear it makes everything seem more defined.

The descent of route 14 to Cedar City is an ear popping 4 to 5,000 feet. Gear down or have good breaks. July 4^th, courtesy of Cedar City at 10 AM, route 14 is dead stop until they Finnish with their parade.

I-15 exit 40 to Zion’s Kolob Canyon is at the northern end of the park with no roads connecting to the rest of Zion. The drive in for viewpoints is short. Camping at the southern end may be hard to find tonight per the ranger at this visitors’ center.

At the southern end of the park many miles from the Kolob entrance, Zion, from a roadside viewpoint by car or shuttle bus is a canyon cut by the Virgin River. It’s a place of impressively massive vertical sandstone mountains and cliffs in two main colors, rust and gray beige. Impressive as in cliffs 2,500 to 3,000 feet are climbed in two days. Think of a 125 to 150-story industrial building. Of course there aren’t any today. It’s impressive, even domineering if you find a summer-shaded scene. Impressive, a geologist’s and climber’s treat. Yet it seems not to inspire. Perhaps its beauty is subtle and elusive. It brings to mind the phrase, "How are you going to keep them down on the farm once they’ve seen Paris". These cliff walls are no match for the high cliffs of the Grand Canyon seen from the river. They lack the size breadth and complexity. Morning and evening here bring the glow of reflected light.

"Having an off day?" you may be wondering. There have been a few stumbles, but what would pick up a paddler’s day? Take the shuttle, which follows a canyon cut by an "R" word, a gentle gravel and river-rock flow when not in flash flood. A mile and a half up a tree shaded, easy walking paved path and it’s river sandals time. Many do it. Few have the equipment. 300 yards up and you’ll get your shorts in water as the canyon closes in. The Narrows may be tomorrow’s challenge attired more properly in synthetics. There may be some other short look-see jaunts as well. A ranger said you have to take some long hikes to get to the good stuff. You would need inspiration for a 2,100-foot elevation change 8-hour hike even if you were likely to do it in less time. The 3,000-foot hike up from the Tatshenshini River, Yukon, Canada was worth it. The lofty views available here are already in the mind. Putting the energy for this one in the bank for the back side (other than straight vertical side) of El Capitan some day seems a good compromise.

If you bring a bike, you can stop where you want along the shuttle bus route and if pressed for time, might even outrun the bus. Cyclists have passed in the opposite direction on occasion. Their freedom is likely the next best thing to a hike for getting to know the place.

Spruced up and on Zion’s 12-mile main road by 7:25 AM for a morning-light view, nice rock. A minimum 10 mph continuous breeze and cool temperature is incompatible with a river dip hike.

The shuttle bus route is more interesting in this light. A 2-hour easy hike to a 90-foot waterfall from Zion Lodge is not compelling. They also have a paved short "mountain bike" trail along the river.

So, here atop a boulder looking back down a 20 to 30-foot wide canyon between two one hundred foot high walls, the question is why. Having perused the park’s newsletter for an early day’s quick excursion, Weeping Rock sounded good. Having missed the fact that ½ mile meant round trip and also being at the trailhead for something called Hidden Canyon, a mile one way, the choice was obvious. Newsletter information in the car back at the visitors’ center and with nothing else to go on, the game was afoot. A mile later, up a continuous 25-degree heart-thumping switchback, paved to look like a rock trail, you get to a sign that says strenuous trail ahead. Correction, the last 1/8^th mile is not paved. It clings to the side of the mountain rock-face with an embedded chain grab rail for those concerned. Slick rock mixed with a little fine sand tracked in by hikers, a one-person wide track and steep drop off has you wishing you were Spiderman. And now they talk about strenuous. The sign, by the way, is about 20-feet away. To get to it and Hidden Canyon, you must negotiate a sloped rock surface that is inclined to deliver you into a small pool 10-feet down from which there would be no exit without assistance. The fact that this slick-rock also has hiker born sand is no help.

Strenuous is not the issue for perhaps a half-mile into the canyon. Some places called dangerous would be more to the point. Continuing from the present location would be foolhardy solo. Needless to say, there is no sound of anyone else in here. Only tracks in the sand of others not deterred by "no" and dumb enough to have continued. Slick rock, sand and falls with quick stops are not a comforting thought. Think today was not the best for having no breakfast.

Enjoyed the walk in here, mostly flat on a prehistoric streambed now covered in sand and some river rocks. After a few rock scrambles you’re finally stopped by the thoughts of an earlier comment about people climbing to heights without knowing where they will put their feet during the climb down. Don’t intend to make that mistake. There is a fabulous glow off the walls in here along with plenty of greenery, trees and low growth for comfort.

Exit time down 850-feet and past the gathering crowds, many of whom will not ascend to the trailhead. Listened to shuttle driver Mike Shannon provide a combination of enjoyable, detailed and informative well-chosen sound bytes. On the way out of Hidden Canyon, about 40-feet before retracing the slick rock "entrance fee", I spoke with a couple also crazy enough to have paid the tariff of fear. We swapped go to places. Their tale of squeezing through narrow cracks tracing the sinuous path cut through rock by a flash flood corridor in Escalante is one to put on a future list (Escalante slot canyons – Brimstone, Spooky and Peek-a-boo on lands manages by the BLM, information at the visitors’ center in Escalante). Be aware of the weather for obvious reasons.

Back at the Zion visitors’ center to see if there are any ranger provided geology walks or lectures. It’s become apparent that despite huge size and implied grand vistas, the real story here is up close and personal with the rocks.

After a ten-minute conversation with an ex-New Yorker, ranger and a specific request for information about a bagel, the answer was a "café" called Watchman’s in Springdale. It’s a small, half take-out place with coffee, tea, croissants, bagels and sandwiches based on the above. Some serious personal energy recharging followed this stop. The location was a picnic table next to the nature center just inside the park. Ham, Swiss cheese and eggs on a whole-wheat bagel went down like an hors d'oeuvre. Some water, movement limited to the table, the question becomes; is it near enough to 2:30 PM for a 25-minute talk on geology? Or is it hit the road? The organizer alarm says ½ hour to go.

The drive in is not exceptional, passing through a few small towns until Springdale, a larger small town, also a tourist location. To their credit there are no fast food places. Springdale is adjacent to the park entrance. The park feels well groomed. It’s an impressive place but seemed not to excite the mind.

At 7 PM, a long way down the road after Zion geology 101, there’s a gentle, almost cool breeze flowing in Kaibab National Forest. The distance is about 40+ miles to the Grand Canyon North Rim and ¼ mile deep in the woods away from route 89. Take a smooth gravel road unmarked on route 89, select logging access 200C, back into an old spur and you have the sound of trees in a breeze, no camper noises or lights. You get the feeling of having traveled far into a Ponderosa pine forest scatted with Aspen. Add the music of John Williams and the London Symphony Orchestra just for added ambiance. This is amazing, quiet and beautiful. The light plays at a steep angle through the trees. Based on the temperature at 8 PM, it will be chilly tonight.

Another face and hands numbing shave and shampoo this morning. It’s chilly at 7 AM with crystal clear light glancing obliquely off tree trunks and pine needles. Even the Honda took an extra crank to get up.

Found out at the North Rim park entrance it was 46 degrees last night. Sitting at a picnic table overlooking the canyon from Vista Encalantda viewpoint it is hard to believe it’s been a busy day. Drove 40 miles, entered the park, waited at the campground 1-hour for the registrar to arrive and had Michael Root and family offer to sell me their campsite. They were headed off on other adventures. Knowing there would be a site available by arriving this early and at ½ price with the Golden Access card, declining seemed the choice. Mr. Root tracked me down during an ice block purchase in the grocery store at the campground entrance. "You take it and enjoy". He wouldn’t accept money. Seems he does some paddling himself. Must have spotted the canoe.

Did the dumb tourist thing and drove to the farthest observation point figuring there was time to get back for a ranger conservation talk and walk. Not fully appreciating a 35 mph speed limit and the pace of a sports car lovers twisting road, ran literally to the North Rim edge, an additional 5 minute walk one way and then ran back to the car for the 30 mile round trip drive in time to catch the ranger’s start up. The ecology talk mostly involved discussing how fire effects and is part of the natural cycle of the North Rim plateau. Approximately 50 years of fire eradication has changed to a policy of controlled burns in recent years. This was the hot topic because a recent burn and freak 80 mph winds equaled a year’s worth of spot burns in one fire only 4 weeks ago. The follow-up ranger walk was cancelled. The trails usually used were not yet open post fire. Now, with a time-whole in the day’s schedule, the realization that bouncing between viewpoints was driving-intensive and hiking not on the agenda, a lazy afternoon setting up the "camper" was in order. That done and evening approaching it’s time to find a parking space at The Lodge to gain a ranger’s incite about the Grand Canyon suite by Grofé, (Ferdinand Rudolf von). Next was a ranger lead look at the night sky via the rim. Could have skipped 3 of the 4 ranger talks today. The geology, early afternoon at the rim was good. At 10:30 PM after the night sky talk 3 miles away; it’s time to tip tow, with headlights ablaze, into the campground.

Up at sunrise again. Do the sports car slalom thing to Imperial Point because this wasn’t planned due to the late evening antics. Be aware, the park Smokey will ticket you, just figured he wasn’t up yet. Pictures, it’s nature, you just have to catch the old girl when she wants to show off. At 10 miles rim to rim, haze is the norm. On a clear hazy day you can make out the tops of high mountains over 120 miles away.

Clean up back at the campground and off to Lees Ferry, our Grand Canyon put-in with questions for the ranger.

Glad to have gone. It was a different and in some respects more interesting view than the South rim. You’re 1,000 feet higher for a different perspective than the South Rim of 6 year ago. Hiking is likely the way to enjoy the ecology and views. The Lodge here has the best drive-to viewing location so step right through to the outside stone terrace. They don’t charge for this.

Lees Ferry and ranger Ray Hall would be happy to accommodate an arrangement to lock up our canoes a day early back of the ranger station. Oops, he won’t be there on the 11^th. Due to personnel changes he doesn’t know who his stand in will be. He will give us a check out and orientation on the 10^th if we can get equipment and everyone ready by midday. Lees Ferry has changed in 11 years. It now sports a real parking area, more refined infrastructure including a cold-water washroom. There’s a Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center, a tad short on interpretive, at a new second bridge crossing the Colorado at Marble Canyon. The old bridge, barely wide enough for two vehicles passing opposite each other, has become a footbridge for viewers.

Glen Canyon dam had to be seen; it’s the control source for our river flow, besides there’s all that technology to wow over. After the 45-minute tour, it wasn’t all that impressive. A 186-mile long man made lake behind some concrete falls short. After an hour or two of what the History Channel can do to tell the Hoover Dam story, the almost nothing moving but the 50-story internal elevator isn’t video game enough to retain interest. The stats are impressive.

Having fumbled the ball at this juncture of the planning department, sitting in the "hot mode" praying for a cooler evening at Lone Rock "campground" beside Lake Powel is the only game in town. This beach is a free-for-all 1/8-mile-long waterfront minus ocean waves and salt. It does have boats and personal watercraft everywhere. Did someone say beachfront? You can’t see it for all the RVs, boat trailers and people making whatever noise elevates them. Off to one side where you would have to pitch yourself off the edge to get to a dry wash ending at the lake are three quietly parked vehicles. One’s currently empty. We’ll see. Thankfully it’s been overcast above this part of the lake all afternoon. The mesas that are highlighted around 5 miles away have had those bleached adobe colors. A dip in the lake, envisioned from a previous day is out the window. It may be time for the next best option now that evening sunlight has arrived, pay showers.

Dumb and dumber, if it looks like Virginia Beach where they roll out 4x4s and RVs along the shore, are they going to have pay showers? No, they’re going to have push-the-button and get cold sprits outdoor body and foot nozzles. Back to the car as the sun sets, on with the swim trunks, cold shower and drive back to a "secured" spot. Nice sunset to shower by with lightning in the far distance downwind over a mountain. There’s a just noticeable breeze now. Bare topped for the first time in a while feels like being part of the now more subdued party. If it stays warm like this it could be ground sleeping time. But then there’s some real padding in the car. This is not your soft beach sand.

Various noises continued until after the last hues of horizon-light quenched. Sound travels far out here. Friday night people arrived and "late" people packed it in to leave after dark. It was still quite warm but a perceptible breeze was enough for sleep.